Tag Archives: slow travel

Summer Camper Trip – Posada de Valdeón, Spain

‘And if travel is like love, it is, in the end, mostly because it’s a heightened state of awareness, in which we are mindful, receptive, undimmed by familiarity and ready to be transformed. That is why the best trips, like the best love affairs, never really end.’ – Pico Lyer

My love affair with travel extends far beyond the beauty of new places and people. I have no bucket list. I have a lust for the affair. And it’s no wonder I’ve created a life that has revolved around this affair. Without it my soul is starved – without adventure there’s no oxygen. However, the great climax of this affair is the never ending path it opens up. The next adventure. The return to life with new perspectives and motivations. And let’s face it most of us still need to return to a routined, stable life. We do! With four kids, two of high school age, a mortgage and retirement to think about.

It has always felt indulgent and privileged to write about and experience travel in the way I do. I’ve decided to not allow that to hold me back from exploring it in writing. In the past I have. And I believe I must because I’m all about living life (everyday life) as an ongoing adventure filled with exploration and growth. To ignore the influence travel plays in my life is not the whole story, not my story. I never want to contribute to a landscape of encouraging people to lust after something, but rather to find their own way. Yet, so much of who I am comes from my need to wander and why. My desire to wander daily with love and lust for the beauty of life. All of life.

These past few years have been quite an expedition. Mostly, I’ve embraced the notion of finding freedom, of removing the shackles of expectations. And of releasing myself from what I thought life would or should look like. In these mountains – the Picos de Europa I leapt froward. I hiked on my own (which I do) and as I was enraptured by the wild beauty, scared (of the wild boars) when I started walking through a bracken covered dense trail, hurt when I fell on my back descending the mountain and strengthened when I navigated the map – I was also completely at peace. At peace with the joy, unknown, fear and pain.

I was as close to myself as I could get out there in those mountains. And I didn’t sleep that night … rather, I lay awake. Not awake over analyzing thoughts but excited by new thoughts and ideas. Excited about what comes next for me. This next transition as I choose to leave doubts behind and become a stronger woman. A warrior woman who hugs fear. On that mountain fear become my mirror and for me, staring at fear is as honest as it gets.

What a delightfully endearing town this is. A place where the children could play in our €10 per night camper spot surrounded by mountains. The children were invited to play soccer with locals. A place where we met a camper family from NZ who had been on the road for 17 months! We were so enthralled by their stories, particularly their love of Sardinia and their generosity in sharing their experiences. I finished reading a manuscript written by a friend, what a sacred privilege, it had me inspired and dreaming of possibilities in my own kitchen and garden. I was taken with the locals working and playing with their hands. And that strikes me as something we need to consider – what we doing with our hands. One thought I’ll be taking forward with me.

Buen Camino lovelies,

F xx

Camper tips:

Cosy! Don’t forget COSY. You can have movie nights, snuggle and make TUE popcorn. Sometimes if you’re lucky and there’s a restaurant in view you can leave your kids to watch the movie and dine out on scrumptious, local fare. Of course the first setting isn’t until 9pm – because Spain!

Summer Camper Trip – Bilbao, Spain.

I don’t actively seek the scallops or the yellow arrows but as we settle into this month long trip along the North coast of Spain here they are again! Of course it’s not surprising given that the Norte Camino route towards Santiago weaves it’s way along this part of the world. I do like the reminders though … to follow the ‘way’.

When we first landed in The Netherlands we had an experience in the ‘expat’ housing system that led me to an unfamiliar place. A place where even though you do what’s right you can still get hurt. Sometimes no matter what you do a situation just can not be fixed, your decision has turned into a bad one. I like to live in a trusting world and so feeling like I’d landed in a mistake because of my trusting nature was a tough one for me to navigate. Even with all my wildness I still follow rules … so when a party doesn’t play fair it’s a challenge for me. The whole situation had me re-evaluating every decision I’d made in the past few years it shook me hard.

It’s a situation we moved away from but for a while it stole something from me. Trust. Thankfully I had the camino for One Girl to anchor me. Without the connection to One Girl it would have been easy for me to walk away from walking the camino. The trust I lost is the kind that is rooted in my core (my soul) … trust that the universe would be kind as long as I’m kind and honest. Perhaps it messed with my pre-conceived notions of karma.

Now, with some space between the darkness of that time and the light the of the camino and all the acts of kindness* along the way. I trust the ‘way’ I’m living and wandering about in this life again. And I’m enjoying this dip into uncertainty that always comes when I step into a new adventurous experience. The unchartered new perspectives and thoughts that are sparked by my curiosity and love of unplanned travel. Clarity, will in time unfurl the ‘way’ for me so long as I surrender to trust.

Without trust it’s easy for fear to win don’t you think? And when fear wins we don’t dare. Dare to try, dream, believe – to trust in ourselves and the universe. It’s easy for the beasts of fear and doubt and modern day expectations to hold us prisoner but I’m not surrendering to them. I’m not going down the garden path of fear, expectations and complacency without a fight. As my sister says … ‘those who take risks and live adventurously always end up ok’. I will forever be walking my own camino and embracing that I have a choice in how I tread that path. Even when it requires re-writing old stories and always by creating new ones.

Bilbao – home of a Guggenheim museum. It was a stop we didn’t manage last year. We were hightailing across Spain to escape the Portuguese heat waves. City stops in a camper are not always the easiest and for us they’re often the first thing we cross off our ‘where we want to go’ list.

As with any museum there were exhibitions that appealed to us and those that didn’t. I’m glad we visited … although if you have kids the staff aren’t shy about shaming you if they step anywhere near the art (be prepared). It’s definitely not a museum you can let a toddler loose in because you can get up close to amazing pieces of work and in our case the Joana Vasconcelos exhibition. No photos as it wasn’t allowed. If you get a chance and this exhibition makes it to your country I’d love to chat about it with you if you see it. I’m still thinking about it.

Then we basically just wandered, got soaked, ate the best tortilla (ever), enjoyed a picnic baguette and spent our own time back at camp sinking into the freedom and space that comes with #vanlife. The view was a €15 per night postcard. We also wore through all our clothes as there wasn’t a one stop shop** with washers on the way in to Bilbao from San Sebastián. Not like France.

We stayed two nights and left with three bags full (of washing and contentment). Seeing our kids as themselves is the most beautiful gift. Even running out of smalls can’t dampen our spirits … we are in our travel and family element (and we can hand wash). So with a car loaded after a big old food shop (can’t speak highly enough about stocking up) it’s onwards. Towards the beach for the luxury of that salty smell, a surf for the grommets amongst us and a washing machine!

Buen Camino,

Fran xx

*Kindness. Yes, I’m talking to you lot: the messages, the crystals, the artwork, the sage sticks, the spells and mostly the trust. The trust you put in me to do something that mattered and by encouraging me with all your support. It was everything, it kept me tethered.

** if you’re reading this and planning to Camper … we found a big carrefour in the industrial part out of town (Bilbao). The Repsol (petrol station) had an eco laundry attached to it.

Camper tips:

City stays!

We’ve done a few. The easiest ones are the ones that have a metro, bus or train station close by. If you’re lucky you can find a park up within walking distance (San Sebastián and Girona – awesome ones). Mostly for the big cities we have stayed in caravan parks. Rome, Barcelona, Lisbon all convenient but be prepared to transport in. We made it all the way to Madrid only to decide we’d give it a miss. The caravan park (the only one) was pretty gross and it was a bus and tram away … and in 40 degree heat, not fun with kids. There is a freedom in embracing flexibility and spontaneity, in not ticking every box and in choosing easy – the possibility of something even more wonderful. Freedom from stress, isn’t that one of the things we go away to remember?

Summer Camper Trip – San Sebastián, Spain.

Imagine if we finished everything we started! Gosh we’d be busy wouldn’t we. Nah, busy is not for me … never has been and especially not when it comes to travel. Active – sure. But checking off a ‘to see or do’ everything list, nah not interested. Now that we travel with kids I think I’d go mad if I tried. So when we leave we often know there will be another time or perhaps even another place.

That ‘another time’ in San Sebastián came these past few days. We passed through here on our trip last year. Last year as we wandered along the cobblestones, drank the sangria, ate the tapas and even got hair cuts* … we knew in our hearts we’d be back as we fell for this city and it’s inviting city beach. La Concha. Yes – we’d be back to swim and play here.

*we often do every day get organised kinds of things like get hair cuts when we travel! Seriously, it’s so much easier with four to get a haircut at the time you just happen to walk past one together.

We arrived at the motorhome park we stayed in last year (€7.90 per night) where everything is in walking distance. After dealing with the facilities, (more on that in camper tips) we realised the park up was full. We knew there was another one out of town but as we left we noticed there were many campers parked on the surrounding streets. A 7m house on wheels needs a long car park but if there is enough footpath and it’s low we can back right up and fit into one spot.

Last year I’m not sure we would have considered parking up in the street! But now we’re a lot more adventurous. Gosh I remember the first time we ‘wild’ camped in Portugal last year in a beach car park I was so nervous. Wild camping is the term for ‘free’ camping, generally in a non camping spot. And doing it in a city is a first for us. We even slept with our windows open! Seriously my levels of fear have shifted significantly. That’s practice though isn’t it. It’s the same with anything right, the more we do something the better we get at it. It’s nice to be able to measure yourself a year later and see how far you’ve come.

Gosh kids are adaptable … in a manner of a few days we’ve gone from exploring world war 1 trenches, to climbing mountains to a day playing with kids from around the world they’d never met and now a city street park up! And the first thing they did when we parked was to start playing down ball against the available concrete wall. My kids sink so freely into exploring and travel as long as they can play!

After a night parked ‘wild’ we found a spot in the motor home park and settled ourselves in between a van of young German lads and a Dutch van. The German lads tended to spend a lot of time over at a van full of young German girls! No surprises there. We bonded easily with the neighbors after one of our boys let a loud fart rip (much to his embarrassment, the littlest ;)). The Germans all thought it was hilarious and said it sounded like their van.

We’re still sticking with one pot, one plate meals when we can … wraps work as a brilliant plate. And the afternoon chop and snack type foods! Oranges are the best in Spain – as you would expect. Most of the food in Europe is grown here I imagine.

We ended up staying three nights in SS and enjoyed a magical day playing at La Concha. I finally test rode my SUP. I was a bit wobbly, but with a month up my sleeve to practice I hope to be cruising into the the spring on the canals back in The Netherlands. Z was a natural. It was brilliant to visit again and to have swam in the picturesque harbour. I swam out to the pontoon and managed to talk myself through the deep water dread I sometimes get in the Australian oceans. No sharks here! We spent an afternoon strolling in the old town (bugger the hairdresser was closed) and as the sunset on the third night we decided it was time to head out next morning.

After camping in a tight city park up it felt like the right time to move on and seek some space. This is the great joy of the campervan, the freedom to move with our moods and needs. The Dutch campers next to us and the subsequent Dutch van that camped after them were so ‘night’ noisy. Both coming home at late night and reorganizing and sorting their vans for a morning departure. It’s part of summer camper vanning there are more people around! We were so spoilt last year traveling in the off peak season between March and July. Although I have been pleasantly surprised how easy it is to park up without hordes of people out of the cities. Motor home parks are transient places not full of month long ‘set up house’ type campers.

So we say good bye to San Sebastián. We both decided this would be a weekender place for us now if we were to return. A place to sneak away as adults or with friends to enjoy the cobblestone streets with its bars of tapas that spill with fun and conviviality out into the late afternoons.

Buen camino friends we’re off to Bilbao,

Fran xx

Camper tips:

The facilities! No hiding from it … it’s got to be done.

Have the chemicals! Don’t run out. They can be purchased at service stations, supermarkets and camper parks. I once read a story of a family who didn’t realise you need chemical in a chemical toilet!!!

Gloves get some heavy duty ones! Greg likes to wipe with detail wipes after each empty.

Empty as often as you can. Filing the facilities is risky.

Get used to sending everyone off to the toilet when there is one available – even just in case they can go.

Summer Camper Trip – Bayonne, France.

We arrived in time for the Paella and what a fabulous treat! Not just the food but the entire 24 hours. We popped in on our favourite French family who are the family of friends we made in Sydney. This wonderfully warm family who do everything with great love! A gathering that flowed without the need for fancy … my favourite kind of easy – genuine. So luxuriously elegant in its beautiful simplicity.

We landed here during the Fètes de Bayonne. A five day summer festival. A festival that celebrates with music, street performances, traditional dance, parades and fireworks. Local Bayonne’ites from this Northern Basque Country wear the red and whites, the colours of Pamplona. We didn’t make our way into the festival but couldn’t help but be swept up on the excitement.

There were tents pitched on nature strips and on vacant lots. It appeared there were no restrictions for this weekend of fun and frivolity. We camped up on the street of our friends house. We did so without incident … although we were awoken by the singing of a few loud partygoers returning home! We have now managed to stay in France for 8 nights for a grand total of €34 euros and I don’t think we’ve made any compromises in doing so. So far we are blissfully contented and in the flow of adventure and joy.

A gathering where both the adults and children communicated in the languages of English, French, Spanish, food, wine, cheese, fun, play, laughter, culture and tradition. Our hosts are the purveyors of home made Pavlova’s in France so we were treated to Pav’s for dessert. There is nothing humble about a home made pavlova, topped with cream and with whatever seasonal fruit is available. Divine. One of the guests also baked the gateaux basque – perfect on the day and perfect the next morning with coffee. Cherry flavoured and made from a recipe handed down from grandmothers … not an easy one to replicate.

The evening ended with the kids playing The Game of Life. Do you remember this from your childhood? It’s a nostalgic one for me, I loved this game. My cousin had it – I always looked forward to playing it when we visited. There’s something special about being able to rock up with four kids and seeing their day end like this. My tribe of wanderlusters skipped contentedly back to the van once the evening concluded.

And now we leave to make our way towards San Sebastián our first stop in Spain. A beachy, foodie city and one we fell in love with on our last camper trip. It will be the last of the towns we know before making our way across the Nth of Spain. We knew last time we wanted to come back to swim in San Sebastián’s spectacular picturesque harbour one day. Here we are on the way. I never travel to see and do it all … that’s just not possible. Will we love it as much? Let’s see shall we.

Buen Camino,

Fran xx

Camper tips:

It took us months the first time around to switch on the gas! Yet when you do you are instantly more free in your choice of park ups. Camping on the street was possible for us because during the day we could switch our fridge to gas. If you’re reliant on electricity you always need a caravan park or motor home park up that supplies it. Filling gas bottles is not technically allowed but everyone does it and no one asks when you go in to pay. Most campers have the adapters for each country on board. Ask when you pick up the camper. And if unsure, You Tube how to fill the bottle if you’re comfortable doing it. That’s what greg did (among other camper things!). Not all service stations have gas so you need to plan for that. Or, alternatively you can buy new bottles along the way.

Summer Camper Trip – The Pyrenees, France.

Woo – hoo we have been adventuring up high! Parked up and camping in a village at 1,700m altitude. We’ve had the luxury of mountain views, hikes, hundreds no thousands of bikes, great company (new friends) and a full moon to remind us just how amazing this life is. I may have also begun to nail how being organised and spontaneity can hold hands without hurting each other.

Last time I left you we were driving through fields of sunflowers towards The Pyrenees. We made our way to Saint Gaudens, not a town to explore but a great overnighter with green space and mountain views. A cool €8 for the night and each site has electricity and its own water supply! Most motor home sites have electricity (the cheaper paid ones) but individual water taps are a bonus. Private caravan parks tend to have a water tap per site. We’re trying to avoid these and keep our accommodation simple and budget. More money for cheese and basically we don’t need it – the luxury is in the camp life. Oh and unlike most things French that are sexy the road tolls definitely aren’t! They are sexy without the ‘s’.

Our plans were to head into the mountains and move between stage 17 and 18 of Le Tour de France. We had such a brilliant time last year watching a stage in the Jura mountains. Camping on a mountain means no electricity and minimal shops so first we needed to get organised! Hello to the beauty of the one stop shop in France. A place to shop, wash, empty facilities, top up water if needed and to refuel.

After sorting ourselves and organising the above with a stop at an Intermarche (one stop shop) we were off again. The rivers and villages in the mountain valleys are some of the prettiest I’ve ever seen. I always feel that all is right in the world when I drive through these beauties. The rivers sparkle with a fresh kind of beauty as they flow away from the mountains and through the towns.

We anticipated parking up to watch the cyclists at the peak of the last climb but as we started driving up the mountain we soon realised we weren’t alone. Every available piece of mountain that could be parked on … was being parked on! We drove up, and then we drove down then the other side. There were a few square metres of available mountain space. But, in the end we decided it wouldn’t be fun parking on them for 24 hours if it meant that we needed to confine our four kids for safety!

Onward. We’d go to the next stage and be a day ahead! Guess where we ended up … back at the Intermarche. Yes, we had to drive back up and over the mountain and into the village with the one stop shop. I’m not usually a fan of dryers (environmentally and for care of clothes) but given that we still had an afternoon of driving ahead it was a smart move. We stopped made our lunch, baguettes of course (France) and popped the freshly washed clothes (from the morning stop) in to dry.

After a long day we made it! Up into the ski village of Saint-Lacy. Parked up between two campers with GB plates (English but living in France) we put the fridge on gas (it charges on the car battery as we drive) and popped a few beers in the freezer. The gas can also heat the water so we have access to warm showers. Sorry digressing … after the beers went in the freezer, the awning went up and camp set up we set off into the village to stretch our legs and explore.

Ski villages are hives of good energy in summer, full of adventuring types. Add that a stage of the Tour de France is about to pass through and it’s a village buzzing with the excitement vibe. The village was packed with campers and tents – literally wherever they could fit! All respectfully parked up without any charges. Seriously €0 for three nights accommodation with those mountain views . While wandering we happened on the last of the Monday market and bought a local cake. A Pyrenean specialty, Gateau à La Broche, or a cake cooked on a spit. You can read more about this type of deliciousness here.

Yes the hills are alive here in The Pyrenees. There are many hikes in and around the ski resort and we decided we’d hike up to the Col de Portet where the tour will pass through just before the finish line the next day. I also need to get some training under my belt for my upcoming #hikeforonegirl challenge in September.

By now our kids know we are going to hike them when we travel and even when we don’t ;). The little one fought it a bit at the beginning, perhaps it was the uphill as far as the eye could see. With a set of hiking poles and some gentle herding from his papa he was mightily pleased to have made it up to the 2100m Col (saddle) for our lunch break (ps we have that sign on board as a souvenir). Notice the family setting up camp there! Their kids are smaller than ours. Lunch was a brief stop as the clouds were turning. As we headed down the mountain we were graced with the fun of a brief hail storm. Mountains really are the boss and can change weather on a whim. Lucky we had rain jackets in our day packs. (Husband is always prepared).

Nights are super cosy in the camper! We tend to stay in nature where it’s generally quiet and the air is fresh. It’s quite conducive to dreaming … each night I’m having the longest most bizarre dreams. It’s a good thing to be dreaming at night I think. The food is fresh and home made. It’s so nice when the days are long and food becomes a treat not a chore … and it’s super nice when the French living Brits from the surrounding campers join you for an after dinner wine and life, travel chat.

Aah and then what we came to this mountain for! Stage 18 of Le Tour De France. What an amazing day. Cyclist husband was peaking with excitement and answering all of our questions (including those from the new friends from the GB camper who spent the day with us) … the guy (husband) has been watching Le Tour for as long as I can remember. Expert.

There was fanfare and freebies! And characters that made us laugh. But nothing quite beat standing alongside the tour as the riders made their way up the mountain a whisker away from us. That was something special. Afterwards we made our way down and wandered past the tour busses. The kids were excited to see Chris Froome on his bike cooling down and even more pleased to be gifted the riders water bottles from the team Sky bus. It was a little nerve wracking having my kids in the media scrum but they thought it was fun! The FULL experience.

If the Tour de France is something you want to experience, a mountain stage is unreal! Up close and personal plus they don’t race past at 60kms an hour just a leisurely 25kms! I’m not joking – these guys are unreal. Husband managed to cheer each Aussie on by name as they past him – sounded like they were old mates. :)

This morning it was time to leave our mountain park up and drive towards new adventures. We’ve arrived in the town of St Jean Pied de Port, sound familiar? It should! It’s where I started the camino back on April. I’m excited to share this town with its great historical and personal significance with my family … and perhaps take them on a little wander up the first section of the camino. Although first they’re origami’ing as the washing dries on the bonus washing line while Greg heads out to find some decent phone coverage for a work call. A bit like a home day!

Now we’re up to date friends and just in time to roll into some new stories. And briefly about routine and organisation – I’ve been resisting them the past couple of years thinking they prevented me from being spontaneous and free. But really the two can hold hands can’t they. I found that day in day out on the camino. We stopped to be organised to camp on the mountain and that didn’t stop us from changing plans and rolling with them when the first mountain was full, we spontaneously adapted … and because we were organised it was easy. No, routine and spontaneity aren’t mutually exclusive – perhaps it is in the combination of both that gives us freedom. One is not more important than the other … that’s my lesson.

Buen camino dear ones. I’ve got to keep moving and hit some tennis balls with the littlest one!

Fran xx

Camper tips:

Clothes!

Don’t pack too many. Obviously it depends on the season but for instance one jumper and a good wind, rain jacket is often enough. How many times do we pack something just in case … and then never wear it. Put them straight away once they come off the line or out of the dryer. Have a dedicated washing bag again I brought ours from home. Bring pegs and rope for a line. Last time we stopped in caravan parks for our wash stops. Now we put a load on when we do the shopping and hang in the camper park. It’s €8 for an 18kg wash the same as a caravan park yet staying in a camper park is €8 compared to a minimum €30 in a caravan park for the night. It’s like anything – we get better the more we practice!

All our kids have a cube for socks and jocks. When choosing a camper do look at storage … it makes such a difference. If you can hang everyone’s t shirts up in one spot it makes choosing and rotating simple. I also hang the t’s on hangers on the lines so they go straight to the cupboard. I do that at home to.